Lasting Impressions of The Balkans

This is my second trip to the Western Balkans, the first being to Zagreb about 2 years ago. I've also been to several countries which only emerged from behind the iron curtain in the last 20 years: the Czech Republic, Poland and Estonia have featured in my travels. Yet, in many senses, this has been a steeper learning and experience curve than those trips.

Throughout many former Eastern Bloc countries and, indeed, most Western European countries, too, there are memorials to those lost in the world wars or in the struggle for independence. There's evidence of change and loss but mostly it has been preserved or sanitised. Although divisions may still exist, they are largely hidden and the process of "moving forward" is well advanced. In Bosnia & Herzegovina and, to a lesser extent, Croatia the divisions remain, the healing is just starting and the physical scars are all too visible.

Even in Dubrovnik with its relative wealth and large number of tourists, gaps remain where buildings have been hit, the suburbs are poor and there are posters condemning the Serbian/Montenegrin bombing, showing where each shell landed. Indeed, when speaking to people the tensions between Croats and Bosniaks, Serbians etc still remain.

In Bosnia, the poverty is much more evident and the damage has been made safe but barely repaired in places. Again, I gather that the divisions remain with schools on either side teaching only their version of history to their people. Signs are meant to be bilingual but often graffiti wipes out one or other language. Political slogans, dates of importance to one side or the other and symbols (including swastikas) can be seen everywhere there is blank wall a spray can can be used on. This is not a sustainable model for peace where a common understanding, respect and future need to be forged.

These countries were at war from 1991-5 with ongoing skirmishes (e.g. In Kosovo) until recently. War is not an historical thing but something that everyone has a story about. Within two and a half of hours of London is a country which is still working through its troubles.

Yet, despite these harsh social realities, there is a softer side to these countries. The scenery is truely spectacular from the coast roads to the mountain passes, from the pretty town centres to the night time panoramas of cities, from the clean accommodation to the welcoming hosts. This was a holiday where I learnt so much of what this area has to offer.

My father remembers travelling through here after his first year at university with its amazing views; I too take away great memories and can wholeheartedly recommend a self-drive trip to explore the area. And it will not be my last trip: the national parks to the north of Croatia and Zadar are a high priority. A trip to Sarajevo is now top on my travel "to do" list.

This holiday has changed the way I see this part of the world and, as with so many of my trips, inspires me travel more around this diverse, fascinating continent of Europe.

‘Fun and Adventure’ as a way of learning

I’m currently having to examine how 2 articles ‘view’ education for my ‘Education and the Social Sciences’ Module.

The two I chose are by Messer & Wolter (Swiss, writing in 2007) and Stronkhorst (Dutch, writing in 2005). They both take largely quantitative looks at the impact of exchanges abroad. The former concludes it has no impact on earnings or likelihood of future studies, the latter concludes it only has minimal impact on the academic development and learning outcomes of the students.

Not good news for me both as someone who spent a year in France and as a researcher with the belief that time spent overseas is benefitial for the development of the individual and their academic career.

Both articles concede that there is an element of personal development. But both articles separate this from educational development. But they also dismiss the ‘fun and adventure’ aspects (their words, not mine) of living overseas in the development of an individual. So where does the personal start and the educational end?

If we take a developmental look at education (which the likes of Froebel started), this only applies to the Primary and Early Childhood phases of life. If we truly believe in lifelong learning surely the experiential, gradual learning through new experiences is just as valid. Else, not only the year abroad but much of the development which happens through this PhD is a waste of time. And not to acknowledge that sort of learning would be a shame.

L'Auberge Espagnole

Just watching L'Auberge Espagnole probably for at least the eighth time.  It's funny that even though I know the plot backwards, I get something new out of it.  This time it was about identity and reminded me how unsettling it was to study abroad and yet life changing.  The main character thinks he is mentally unwell when he cannot cope with the challenges of living in a different culture.  There are several discussions in the film on national identity and personal stereotypes.   

The film reminded me of so many memories and the impact on my life: from the first snow in Grenoble (top picture). 

Or the celebrations for my birthday with people who I've lost contact with but whom the emotional link remains (bottom picture). 




Erasmus is part of the reason I ended up in International Education, working on Erasmus Mundus, and thus part of the reason for my PhD.  The fill emphasised to me that the important thing to do with my research is not to do with the gap between European policy and practice (as the title suggests) but actually the inexplicable, unidentifiable, individual changes that international study has.  I used to have the following on my wall - quoted from the film:

Je me suis retrouvé dans les rues de Paris où les Parisiens m’ont jamais

I found myself once again in the streets of Paris where the Parisians did not own me.
J’étais un étranger parmi les étrangers.
I was a foreigner amongst foreigners,
Pour quoi j’étais là je savais pas.
Why I was there I do not know.
J’en ai généralement su pourquoi j’étais là où j’étais. 
Normally I knew why I was where I was.
Je dois être typique . 
I have to be normal.
Erasmus?
Erasmus?
…
Je suis Français, Danois, Anglais …
I am French, Danish, British …
Je ne suis pas un, je suis plusieurs.
I am not one, I am many.
Je suis comme Europe.
I am like Europe.
Je suis un vrai bordel.
I am a right mess.
C’est une histoire de décollage.

It is a story of lift-off

[Cédric Klapisch 'L'Auberge Espagnole', Translation my own]

Perhaps I should remember this a little more often:  the drive to be part of - and inspire - something different, the desire to be European and still British, the urge to stop being the grown-up I don't feel I am and be the young person I could be.  Time for a décollage? 

P.S.

And for those who have not seen it - an advert for the film for those who have not seen it: