For me, the questions of identity mentioned in my previous blog, go some of the way to explaining the reasons for a visit. The tree-lined streets are good walking territory and there are many fine buildings to inspect with the aid of a coffee or beer. Then just these odd touches of history: the graffiti, the under-investment in building preservation and the sinister police boxes with mirrored windows so you can be watched but not watch in return. But most of the time can be spend admiring the views the city offers, the stunning countryside and the genuinely excellent wine & cooking with fish!
That said, some of the street art is spectacular and clearly reflective of the real political and cultural identity of the Croatian capital. It is colourful, subversive and interesting. Unlike the Europeanised art of the museums, this showed me more about Zagreb.
There is pride in this city, as I found went up the nearby Skemje mountain. Two couples (probably in their mid sixties) were out for a day’s walking and sang songs about Zagreb and Croatia. And certainly in the wealthier northern city and the mountain regions above Zagreb there is a huge amount to be proud of. It is beautiful, tranquil and a part of the country that the locals are clearly proud of.
On the road in from the airport you can see the new motorway out to the airport being built and fields left fallow in between the new factories and office block. It made me wonder what holds up the economy: tourism, service-industry and infrastructure investment may not last and the longer term economic stability is something I would be interested to find out about. This is a country which has much to shout about and needs to start finding a voice because its hard is justifiably proud.
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